If your Italian is limited to singing a few bars of "O Sole Mio" or waving "Ciao." then it’s worth explaining that Buca di Beppo translates loosely as "Joe’s Basement," a sobriquet for the many family-run restaurants that sprang up in Italian neighborhoods in the 1940’s. While you don’t actually have to go underground to experience Buca—their humming Campbell location is on the ground floor, and their equally busy Palo Alto restaurant occupies a two-story building—both facilities faithfully replicate the vibrant informality of an immigrant paisano eatery.
Let’s begin with the ambiance, leaving the food for last. (Though certainly not least!) First and foremost, Buca bustles with boisterous action and celebratory energy. Most booths and tables will seat more than four, and are close enough together to suggest adding traffic signals for the quick-stepping waitstaff. Buca’s walls are jam-packed with evocative photographs depicting 1940s and ‘50s Italian and Italian-American life, from endearing Napoli street urchins to candid shots of Frank Sinatra and Sophia Loren. A sense of fun is a Buca trademark, so it’s not surprising that some of the photos display a slightly risque, tongue-in-cheek humor. (Be sure to check out the restrooms!)
And now for the food. Buca’s specialty is robust Southern Italian cuisine, served in ample portions fully intended for sharing. (Couples have the option of ordering duet-sized meals from the "Per Due," or "For Two" menu.) While some restaurants use generous quanities to compensate for lackluster food, that is decidedly not the case at Buca—the food is imaginative within the bounds of tradition, and delighfully flavorful.
Appetizers include Bruschetta, Mussels Marinara and Garlic Bread with Mozzarella. The lengthy entrée list offers a full slate of pastas, neopolitan pizzas, baked specialties, vegetarian dishes and other items. A few of the latter include Buca Chicken Vesuvio (made with a whole chicken!) with white beans, sausage, oregano and potatoes, Veal Limone with white beans, escarole and lemon sauce, and Chicken Parmagiana with prosciutto. If your craving is for pizza, your choices range from Spicy Arrabbiata with four cheeses, pepperoni, sausage and carmelized onion to Prosciutto Rollato with prosciutto, goat cheese, mushrooms, mozzarella, carmelized onions and provolone cheese. There are also ample desserts, and of course, a goodly selection of Italian wines.
Buca’s consistently lively, communal atmosphere, zesty Italian cooking and generous servings make it a fun choice for a group meal, and the ideal venue for virtually any celebratory occasion. Try Buca once, and you’ll be hooked.
Buca di Beppo has two Silicon Valley locations: In Palo Alto at 643 Emerson St., (650) 329-0665, and in Campbell at 1875 S. Bascom Ave. (in the Pruneyard Shopping Center), (408) 377-7722. www.bucadibeppo.com. The Pope’s Room can be reserved for special celebrations. Dinner Mon-Thurs, 5-10; Fri, 5-11; Sat, 4-11; Sun, 12-10. Also located in San Francisco.
