For those with discerning palates, finding an extraordinary restaurant is like searching for a soul mate: You need to go through a lot of candidates before you find the one who leaves you with stars in your eyes. Le Papillon, a San Jose destination for more than 30 years, is that restaurant.
Founded in 1977 by Mike Mashayekh, Le Papillon is easy to fall in love with. Its décor and atmosphere are classically refined; its staff is warm and attentive; its selection of French and California wines is exceptional; and its contemporary French cuisine is consistently top-drawer in its preparation and presentation. It has garnered numerous accolades over the years, including high Zagat ratings and inclusion in the prestigious DiRoNA Awards publications.
Much of the restaurant’s success can be attributed to the culinary mastery of executive chef Scott Cooper, whose artistry has guided the kitchen for nearly two decades. While rooted in French tradition, Cooper’s style is globally inspired and fully dedicated to freshness, resulting in a menu that is both exciting and exquisite.
Updated frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients as well as Cooper’s latest innovations—often using his own renditions of foaming or sous-vide techniques—the menu offers the choice of both à la carte items as well as a regularly changing, multi-course tasting menu.
For the ultimate experience, go for for the tasting menu and opt for the accompanying wine pairings. Each course of this adventure delivers new combinations for your taste buds to explore while leading you seamlessly to the next. The key to full enjoyment is to take your time, savoring every aspect of your meal in true European style. This was our approach on one recent evening, and still the three hours spent over our meal went by much too quickly.
Any meal at Le Papillon begins with amuse-bouches—single, bite-sized appetizers that vary daily according to the inspirations of the chef. We were treated to tender shrimp topped with tangerine compote, as well as savory house-made mortadella encrusted with pistachios. These delightful preludes prepared our palates for the feast to follow.
Cooper’s sense of fusion was apparent in our appetizers: a ceviche of Hokkaido sc
allop served with browned butter powder, as well as the sashimi-inspired, creamy hamachi tartare, accompanied by fresh avocado and tiny slices of hard-boiled quail egg.
Equally fresh, and manifesting Cooper’s unique combinations of textures and flavors, were two other appetizers: A sturgeon panna cotta topped with sturgeon roe and caviar provided a marvelous balance of sweet and savory, soft and crunchy, while a seared ahi tuna and foie gras appetizer brought together the firm-fleshed tuna’s mild flavor and luxurious richness of the foie gras with a slightly sweet black Corinth grape glaze. We were also served a steamed linguine “turban:” a dainty al dente pasta nest holding a firm Gulf prawn in a deliciously milky, cognac-truffle cream.
For entrees, the barely-roasted Japanese Kobe New York Strip beef with maitake mushrooms sautéed in a red-wine reduction was outstanding, as was the grass-fed buffalo from Wyoming’s Durham Ranch. Grilled, topped with a Syrah-based jus and paired with crunchy cocoa nibs, the buffalo had an earthy, nutty taste.
We also sampled the New Zealand Tai snapper—a wonderful sea bream with a slightly sweet taste and velvety texture. Pan-roasted and served with its crispy skin in a light crustacean nage with aromatic herb-stuffed pasta, the delicate flavors worked beautifully together.
While the savory aspects of the meal justifiably received the most attention, our desserts also deserve their place in the spotlight. The grand finale to our evening included white chocolate “logs,” whose buttery, sugary flavor was counterbalanced by a fragrant and tangy passion fruit sauce; juicy, jewel-like persimmon slices sautéed with macadamia nuts and served with a dollop of mascarpone cream; and a light-as-air hazelnut semifreddo drizzled with melted chocolate.
Dining at Le Papillon leaves you glowing with contentment. It's a tribute to Mashayekh's commitment to excellence and Cooper's creativity that Le Papillon has so consistently held a spot at the apex of Bay Area dining.
Hours:
Open for lunch: Fri, 11:30-2:30. Dinner: nightly
Private rooms for 10-100; catering offered
Location:
410 Saratoga Ave., San Jose
More Info:
408/296-3730
www.lepapillon.com
